| In
flatweaving there are a number of different types of loom and
weaving techniques but for purposes herein, the various types can
be catogorized into two general groups. The first grouping
contains the basic flatweave technique, or "kilim weaving". In a
kilim, the pattern is formed by passing a yarn of a particular
colour over and over and under the vertical yarns (known as warps)
for the duration of the particular colour or design motif, then
the same horizontal yarn (known as weft) is turned on the same
path (next row) along the edge of the same coloured motif. This
process is continued until the individual motif is completed. Then
the next motif is started where the initial one finishes, but the
two yarn colours are not normally joined together in anyway, thus
causing a slit to appear between the two respective yarns. Each
block of colour is then woven succesively until the whole kilim is
completed. When you hold a kilim woven in this way up to the
light, you can easily see the slits where two patterns meet but do
not join. The second grouping contains flatweaves which employ the
technique of way wrapping or brocading.
A motif is created by adding a
third yarn to the warp and weft yarns which is wrapped arround the
warp yarns in several configirations depent upon whether the
intent is to weave Cicim, Zili, or Sumak. In Cicim, the motifs are
usually scattered or in series, with no organic relationship
between any two motifs, and the basic ground weave (warp and weft)
shows through so that the Cicim motifs appear to be embroidered.
In Zili the entire surface of the ground weave is normally covered
with the design yarns and vertical lines, somewhat like cords,
protrude to give Zili its distinctive appearance. In Sumak, the
entire surface is also normally covered with the design yarns. All
three techniques may be employed together in one flatweave if
desired. Each of the 4 basic types of flat-weave also has a number
of sub-groups with variations in technique (23 total).
There are two principal types of
knots that are used in rug weaving. The first one is called double
knot, Turkish knot, or Gordes knot and naturally given a firmer
weave yielding to a stronger and more durable carpet. The second
one is known as the single knot, Persian knot, or Sennah knot.
The Turkish knot is standart of
yarn encirling two warp threads, with the loose ends rawn tightly
between the two warps. The Persian knot is a strand of yarn that
encircles one warp threads and winds loosely around the other
warp. One loose end pulled through the two warps, while the other
end goes to the outside of the paired warps.
Rugs and the various flatwaves are
made from five basic materials; sheep wool, goat hair, cotton,
floss silk, and silk. The quality of wool varies according to the
climate, the breed of sheep, and the time of year of the shearing.
Wool from sheep that live in warm and arid regions is normally dry
and brittle, and since it breaks so easly, it ends up being short
and feels lifeless. Good quality wool comes from helthy and well
fed sheep found in cold regions or at high elevations with good
grazing lands and lots of water. In the colder regions, sheep grow
a full fleece to keep warm and their bodies store fat which then
translates to a high lanolin content within the fiber which
reaches lengths of 10 cm. and more. The wool so obtained feels
silky smooth and yet springy. Wool from the higher elevations
(cooler also) and from the spring shearing is considered to be the
highest quality. Wool is hand-spun by using primative utensils
called kirmen (drop spindle) and by spinning wheels. Women usually
spin the wool during idle moments and the street while spinning.
In hand-spun wool, the original length of the fiber stays the same
through the spinning process - a fiber tahat measured 7 cm. before
spinning will still measure the same after spinning. Wool can also
industrially spun, but the hard twisting of the fibers by the
spinning machines tends to berak some of the fibers. Although the
broken bits and shorter fibers can be made to adhere together
through the use of oils during the spinning process, the fiber
will have lost some of its strength, which, in turn, will shorten
the life spun of the rugs to be woven.
In rug and kilim weaving, cotton is
used mostly for the warp threads, as well as for the wefts.
Compaired to wool, cotton is generally considered to be a more
residant fiber and it is less elastic. So, tighter knots can be
tied on cotton warps as opposed to wool. If very tight knot are
tied to a wool warp, the fiber will break much more frequantly
than if the warps were of cotton. Consequentl, woolen pile rugs
with high knoting density counts will normally have cotton warps,
for example, in Hereke, Ladik, and Kayseri Bunyan carpets. |